Rustic WildFox joins Novato dining scene


Where to go: WildFox in Novato is a find. It has a warm, rustic atmosphere, patios with outdoor fireplaces and robust, imaginative food. It is not surprising that the two-month old restaurant is packed at lunchtime.

Inside: Picture a ski chalet crossed with a gentlemen's club - a large, airy room with peaked roof, stone walls, wooden beams and huge windows. Booths with banquettes are the most comfortable, offering the best light and privacy. On one wall, tables overlook an outdoor patio, roaring fire, and tree-covered hill. The acoustics are good and table size is generous.

What to order: Crispy fried calamari and onion rings combine in a batter that turns them into tasty nuggets. Mudbug (crayfish) fritters, though bland, are beautifully presented in parchment paper and a small tin bucket. A juicy portabello mushroom sandwich showcases the mushroom sandwich showcases the mushroom against layers of roasted shallots, grilled eggplant, peppers, onion sprouts and goat cheese on a soft, seeded roll. Mom's meatloaf sandwich has old-fashioned meat and onion zing, enhanced by a melt of cheddar cheese and smoked tomato horseradish spread. Too bad the venison chili was murdered by a douse of of horseradish sour cream. Then I ordered it sans topping and presto - superb meaty, smoky chili with a puck of moist, bacon-studded cornbread on the side. Try the burgers, wood oven-roasted black mussels, fish and chips and chicken-fried steak. Housemade steak fries are thick hunks, surprisingly flavorful, as are the desserts. Fresh hot pineapple upside down cake with housemade butter pecan ice cream and butterscotch sauce was huge and lush - a meal in itself.

At the lunch: Daily crowds mean reservations are recommended. Service is friendly, knowledgeable and responsive. You can be in and out in an hour.

Traffic and parking: WildFox is 20 to 30 minutes from Southern Marin. Free valet parking onsite.